Yesterday I heard from a good friend from the Gold Coast. She sent me a message on Facebook about her horrendous morning surf session out at the local. “I had the worst session this morning! I came in crying! It was just so bad!” I could feel the disappointment and shame in her instant messages as she went on to explain what happened.
There was nothing outrageous. No surf rage, no pain, no massive wipeout. Just a few mishaps at take off and a lapse in technique that made for a bad session. She described a few embarrassing wipeouts that really upset her. This is a girl that I know to be an overall happy, excitable, frothing female surfer. It was upsetting to hear how bad her session was.
I spent my next few messages explaining a few of my recent wipeouts. By recent, I mean I wipeout so often I could ramble on for days. But I gave her a few just to make her laugh because I knew they were so ridiculously funny and I knew she needed to hear them.
There was a time I surfed with one of the GSN Team girls, Freya out at Copa Point. It’s a heavy barreling left over a rocky point. Freya had never seen it working before and on this day it was a solid 6ft dredging barrel. I’ve seen Freya surf some really heavy waves so I knew she’d be keen to hit the point.
Freya paddled straight out the back with no hesitation. She sat right in the middle of the pack of local guys. I managed to score a sneaky wave pretty quick which took me into the channel. On my way back out I saw a set descending on the lineup. I paddled wide and sat up on my board to watch the set.
Freya turned to paddle for a bomb. “Oh yeah, it’s on!” I thought to myself as I watched from the safety of the channel. She was pretty deep. So deep that the wave hit the ledge and sucked up so fast that she missed the take off and got carried over in the lip. All I could see was her green and black wetsuit and a flurry of blonde hair dropping into the flats in what seemed like slow motion at the time. I had a clear view of the entire wipeout from the channel and sat there, slack jawed and in awe of what just happened.
Two local guys paddled straight past me screaming “Holy #### was that a chick?? HEAVY!” To which I replied, “heck yeah it was! That’s Freya Prumm!” They paddled on in amazement.
Freya popped up about 50 meters down the line with a huge smile, water pouring out of her nose and her blonde hair all over her face. She was laughing so hard when she got to me. “Woooooow hahaha! That was pretty heavy! Hahaha!”
We both laughed in shock and paddled straight back out into the line-up. I was so proud of not only Freya that morning. But for all the girls out there that take on the unknown, cop a massive beating and get straight back in there. She went on to score a few screamers on the point that day. You’ve gotta pay to play right?!
Later that session we paddled across to try the beachie before heading in for lunch. The beachie was still pretty heavy. Easily overhead and once it hit the sand bank it seemed to jack up another foot. Freya and I were talking about our wipeouts over the years and how funny it is when you “over-froth”. It happens to me a lot, over-frothing… You see a great wave coming right at you. You sit up on your board, straighten your back to get a better view. You’re wide eyed, checking no-one is on your inside… It’s yours! It’s epic! You paddle onto it with so much energy and excitement that you stuff the take off and blow the entire wave. Yes, that happens to me a lot.
We were giggling as we talked about it while waiting for our last wave of the session. We weren’t sitting there long when we saw a pretty decent sized set coming straight at us. I felt excited. There were only three people in the lineup and three waves to the set. I started to over-froth. Gaaaaah, sooooo excited! I could feel my heart beating faster. I could feel my muscles tensing up. Freya called me onto the first wave and I paddled my heart out to get onto it.
It started to pick me up and push me along. That’s when it hit me. The over-froth. I was soo excited at the look of the wall in front of me that I stuffed the take off, slammed into the face of the wave and got pitched over the falls. Freya was on the wave right behind me laughing so hard she almost fell off her board. I was floundering in the white wash trying to find my pants, laughing so hard I was crying. I wasn’t crying because I was upset. I thought it was the funniest, craziest session I’d had in a long time and I was stoked Freya was there with me, laughing.
Talking on Facebook with my friend on the Gold Coast about her horrendous session got me thinking about girls around the world that have a shocking session… An upsetting session. Hopefully you can laugh it off. Hopefully it’s a learning experience. Hopefully you get straight back out there and achieve what you couldn’t that day.
And as for over-frothing… I hope to keep over-frothing. It reminds me how much I love surfing.
Girl Surf Network