Continued on from Part 2/3.
Big surf earlier! I got 4 waves in total and then back to the boat. Arms were killing! Our shoulders felt as though they had run out of WD40! We followed up our massive surf with a massive breakfast of fresh banana pancakes. My favourite. I really, really, really love them! We did a bit of shopping at the local village after breakky and re-stocked on cheap chocolate and bananas.
On return we caught a quick glimpse of Cokes and we were onto it! Without delay KJ and I paddled out and had 3’ Cokes to ourselves.
We had an amazing session, all expect for the 4 sea urchin spikes I copped in my big toe as I walked the reef. Ouch! I still surfed, had to adjust my foot on the board every time I stood up or duck dived. But hey, it’s a small price to pay!! I made every drop and got a few good waves, I worked on making my turns more fluid by using my shoulders and hips, smiled a lot and watched and learnt from my mistakes!
Hunger and pain brought us back to the camp, where I was the talk of the camp with how they were to remove the sea urchins. Every local had a different idea. The owner came over and although he didn’t speak English, he messaged that he would help me. Next minute I have lime juice being poured on my toe, I’m held down on the chair by some fellow surfers with my foot out so I couldn’t budge. The guy pulls out his lighter and held the naked flame right up against my big toe and the sea urchins. Apparently this is meant to kill the urchins. It caused a blister on his thumb and I was biting down on a towel so I didn’t scream the house down!! My god It hurt! He smashed his fist against my toe to break up the urchin. Hmmm I hope this works or else I’ll be in hospital pretty dam quick hey!
— Lunch! (Anything to take my mind off the toe!)
Not disillusioned from this mornings strong rip, we boarded the little speed boat back to Chickens and this time it was Awesome!!! They were such long rippable rides of 3’ solid waves. The wide ones were the go. I got 3 snaps out on one wave. I was concentrating on getting my board up vertical and then whipping it back down to the trough. It was working! I was loving it! KJ got long 3’ waves too. Her face said it all. Sheer pleasure!!!
We finished off with a big dinner and hit the sack by 8.00pm absolutely exhausted!
— Next day.
Dawny surf check and it wasn’t anything to write home about so back to bed. After a sleep in and a big tuna breakfast we hit Chickens surf break at 9am for mid tide. KJ owned it! Long rides, fluid and smooth position with lots of turns. I stayed on the inside and got the more bowly, rippable ones.
We went out at Cokes in the arvo. It was high tide and 3’. I was quite nervous of getting in for fear of urchins again so I used my reef booties. Shouldn’t have worried though, it was fine! There were 6 of us out there and it was awesome! The set waves were fast and solid with a strong off shore wind. You had to stay tight with the pack for fear of being blown out to sea! I got lots of waves, sped along the fast ones using my “throw and go” arm mantra. Taking the high line to make the section and shred! A big top turn snap and came down with the lip :) One of the other surfers gave me 10/10 and called me Layne Beachley! Haha.
Back to base camp and KJ and I had been asked onto a boat for the evening. Marty (my surf guide from last years Maldives trip) was anchored up and knew that after 5 days being on land we would be needing a beer! hee he! So we quickly changed and walked to the wharf where we were whisked by speed boat onto a bigger boat for the evening.. Ahhh beer.. It never tasted so good!
KJ got travel sick after the short time on the boat. A bit of a worry as we will soon be on a charter boat for a whole week! How will she cope on that?! Neither of us could finish our 2nd beer. But luckily they had enough food to feed us. We dined on gourmet food and even had desert.. it was delicious and such a treat. On the tender on the way back a storm was coming in.We were offered to stay on the boat for the night but KJ said outright “NOPE!” Travel sickness can absolutely wreck you.
Halfway back to the island and the storm was getting closer. We were 100m out in pitch black sea and then we ran across a rope which got caught in the propeller. Our little boat comes to a complete stand-still and Marty nearly goes head first in the drink! A quick set back as we were racing against the incoming storm. It hits us as we disembark at the wharf and race home in the torrential rain and wind. Marty and the captain wait out the storm before returning to their boat.
We get home and safe and dry off before sleep. Another adventurous day in the Maldives.
Thanks to Joel Coleman of Saltmotion.com for pics 1 & 2 which are subject to copyright.